Firenze

Firenze, or Florence, was spectacular. Though we only budgeted two nights and one full day, we feel like we really experienced the city and found a place we both want to return to.

Rather than try and pack in the numerous art galleries, churches and sights, we opted to wander and really enjoyed it. We knew we would stumble upon the Duomo; it's a hard place to miss as it's the largest Catholic cathedral in the world. It was stunning. We're noticing that it's hard to describe these massive monuments because we can't get a full view of them standing right next to them in person. Everything is so close and tight-knit that it's hard to take in from one angle. 

There is a portrayal of the last judgement on the ceiling of the big dome. We enjoyed the free view from the ground rather than paying for a lift up, but it was impressive nonetheless. 

Wandering, we found a farmer's market. It was Saturday and definitely something we would have found ourselves doing on a normal Saturday at home. But being in a foreign place where things are just a little (or a lot) different brings new sights, smells and tastes. Our favorite find was the to-die-for prosciutto. 

We were able to camp in Florence at a campground directly above the city. The campground was directly adjacent to a square that boasts the best view of the city.

We made quick work of Florence, but we will be back!

Cheers,

Will and Katie

When in Rome

When in Rome eat lots of pizza and gelato, be flabbergasted by enormous monuments after turning around tiny street corners, drink juice boxes of wine whenever and wherever you please (straw not included), and try and save some time for relaxing at cafes and popular public hangouts (we didn't do such a good job of this), because that's what the Romans do on a daily basis.

On our first night in Rome we saw the Spanish steps, made a wish at Trevi Fountain, and had the worlds best gelato (we sampled other gelaterias to make sure it wasn't a marketing scam-they weren't lying). We also went to one of the many plazas in Rome that was recommended as a local favorite. We were not that impressed with the plaza, but we found an amazing bakery with pizza, beer, and cookies. In true Roman fashion, we ate dinner around 9pm (because we got lost) and it was well worth the wait.

The next morning we got up early and set out to find some Caravaggio paintings. While neither or us are museum or art gallery enthusiasts, we were blown away by the two paintings we saw in the church of Santa Maria del Popolo. After that we went to see St. Peter's Square and Basilica. Pictures cannot do the beauty of the church justice, but here are a few. 

After that we went to Piazzale Guiseppe Garibaldi for a picnic lunch. After a breather we went to the Pantheon. It is a massive temple turned church with a brick domed roof. Again, pictures, even our attempt at a panorama, can't do this spectacle justice.

That evening we went to the other side of Rome to see the Colosseum and find a famous pizzeria we were gunning for. We made it to the Colosseum a little before sunset, but it was already closed. We took a couple pictures from the outside, capturing the moon and Colosseum in tandem, and then began our search for Pizzeria Remo. It was DELICIOUS. We can't stop talking about how good the pizza was.

This morning we went back to the Colosseum and went inside. It is was massive and brilliant, but rather ugly actually. The interior of the Colosseum didn't age very well. But, to think about how it was built with manpower and pully systems is mind-blowing. It is disgusting to think that going to see gladiators fight is comparable to going to a family movie now days. In some festivals as many as 10,000 gladiators and 10,000 animals would fight. We're not sure of the time frame, but still! It was a huge deal and it was housed in a HUGE arena.

Huck had fun, too. 

Right now we're on a train headed North to Florence. The train was canceled, but then it wasn't, so we're back on track but not quite sure how or why. We both loved Rome with its countless fountains, beautiful churches, and carbohydrates. We will definitely be back some day. For now, we're looking forward to more pizza for dinner. 

Cheers,

Katie and Will

Paradise found

After an "exciting" day of travel involving lots of running and speed walking, we finally found our destination of Olympos Beach Camping. En route we both had our doubts about whether it existed, but it popped up out of nowhere and we were certain we had found paradise.

Olympos Beach Camping offers tent camping, bungalows and villas. It boasts a restaurant, a mini market, multiple bars and a beautiful resort-esque beach where there is wifi and bar service. While we were mere tent campers at the bottom of the food chain, we were just as welcome to the amenities as the villa stayers. The water was clear and refreshing and the views were mesmerizing. 

After an indulgent beach day, we ventured to the nearby village of Litohoro, about 5 kilometers away. This 5 kilometer stretch is the only thing that stands in between the beach and the base of Mt. Olympos and some of the largest mountains in Greece. Turn one way and you have a beautiful view of the sea, turn the other and the mountains are towering  over you. It's a very unique location.

We hiked through the village of Litohoro, which is so quaint it looks like it's been taken from a story book, and then the base of the mountains. We walked through a canyon that wound through the base of the mountains back to some alleged swimming holes. We did find the swimming holes, but we didn't find our way into the water. It had been fenced off due to low water levels, but where there was lack of swimming there were views to make up for it.

On our hike we also bumped into a trail marathon that finished in the town of Litohoro. As you can imagine we were psyched about that and cheered for runners who ran by! We also had the (unfortunate) opportunity to see helicopters going back and forth between the ocean and the mountains to scoop up water and drop it on a forest fire that was happening midway up the mountain. We got to see this from both the mountains (dropping water) and the beach (scooping water). No sign of helicopters or smoke today so we think they were able to put it out!

We're currently en route to Thessaloniki, a northern city in Greece. Expect more soon!

Yamas!

Will and Katie 

Get them to the Greece

The past two days Katie and I have been busy bees running (at times literally) around Athens, Greece.

Our barebones hostel was fine, but it's the kind of place where you have to request a top sheet, and it will cost you an extra euro. We shared a room with a guy from Poland, a girl from Spain, and a girl from Russia, all very nice and sociable.

We started off our Athens sight-seeing frenzy with a free walking tour that was offered at our hostel and three others daily. It was a group of twenty young adults and our guide, George, was a raspy, weathered, half British, half Greek man who gave a well-informed tour. It lasted about four hours and we packed a lot in. We didn't go into any of the paid sights on the tour, but he gave us a slew of information from the outside looking in and we were able to go back and go into the sights we wanted to see more intimately later on. He took us to the Ancient Agora, the Roman Agora, Mars Hill, the Panathenaic Stadium, the Temple of Olympian Zeus, Hadrian's Arch, the Parliament and the Changing of the Guard, the Theatre of Dionysos, the Acropolis and a stroll through the National Gardens. The changing of the guard was quite the spectacle, full of costume and custom. 

After the tour Katie and I tipped George the guide, grabbed a quick lamb gyro, and retraced our footsteps to go into some of the places that sparked our interest. We were able to buy an Acropolis ticket for half price, 6 euro each, by flashing our student IDs. The Acropolis ticket gets you into the majority of the other sites as well.

We started at the Acropolis, translation: high place, where the main attractions are the Parthenon and the Erechtheion. There is a lot of archaeological and preservation work going on unfortunately, so there was a big crane smack in front of the Parthenon. It gave us a greater appreciation for the ruins at Ephesus, which are untouched in comparison. But these giant marble temples were astonishing nonetheless. The Acropolis was built after the victory in the battle of Marathon when Athens defeated the Persians. The Acropolis was built to be ostentatious, a symbol of prowess. Below is the main structure, the Parthenon, which is said to have housed a statue of the patron goddess Athena. If you don't want to go all the way to Greece to see the real deal, there is an actual size replica in Nashville, Tennessee! 

Next is the Erechtheion, which was built as an offering to Athena and Poseiden. Notice the beautifully ornamented pillars, which resemble maidens supporting the structure.

Another of our top finds was the Ancient Agora. This served as a marketplace in early Athens, it was a center point for social life, and now houses many sights worth seeing. The Church of the Holy Apostles, dating to the 11th century, had incredible and intricate paintings.

The Museum of the Athenian Agora is housed in the reconstructed Stoa of Attolas, which would have functioned as a commercial center. There were hundreds of artifacts from pottery, to sculptures, to the lone existing Spartan shield!

On one of our evenings we scrapped together a picnic dinner of bread, cheese, grapes and wine (sold in a plastic bottle, we do not recommend)and trekked across Athens from our hostel to get to Lykavittos Hill, the highest point in Athens, to watch the sunset. While we did (barely) catch the sunset, we had to jog the last bit of our journey to catch the last moments of the fully exposed sun before it fell beyond the horizon. It was still well worth it for those few moments, a tremendous view of Athens. 

We enjoyed joining in the hustle of Athenian life for a couple of days that whizzed by, and now we're headed to do some camping again, but on a beach this time! We are going to be in Litochoro, near the base of Mt. Olympos. The camping looks beautiful and there is hiking, snorkeling, kayaking and sailing galore! We're looking forward to some outdoor expeditions!

Yamas! (Cheers!)

Will and Katie

Katie and Will go to White Castle

Katie and I arrived on Sunday afternoon in Pamukkale by way of a three hour bus from Selcuk. Throughout the bus ride we were able to try and take in the arrid, mountainous landscape surrounding us. We had one scheduled pit stop during the bus ride where our bus driver, other crew members and gas station workers sat down to have hot tea, or 'cay' (pronounced chai-y). They offered it to us as well, don't mind if I do! People have been very helpful, hospitable and accommodating to us during our time in Turkey. People go out of their way to share what little they have, it's very humbling.

In Pamukkale we decided to "splurge" on a hotel/hostel after camping for a couple nights. It is very hot here right now, so the added comfort of AC was welcomed. We've also encountered some traveler's tummy troubles. Nothing serious, but a private bathroom was also a welcome amenity. The hotel also offers free breakfast, wifi, a friendly staff, a 5-minute walk to the tavertines (which you will hear about shortly), and a pool to boot! When I say "splurge", we negotiated for a 50 lira per night stay, which is a whopping $25. The room was bit dingy, but we're not complaining. Maybe you can guess why..

Pamukkale is know for its breathtaking tavertines. Pamukkale translates to 'white castle' from Turkish. Made up of 17 hot water springs, ranging from 95 to 212 degrees. The water flowing from these springs is saturated with calcium carbonate. The carbon dioxide is released from the water and during this reaction the calcium carbonate is deposited as sediment, eventually hardening to form travertines. Here is a picture so you can try to wrap your head around that.

None of the water we encountered was more than warm. You're able to walk and swim, though none of the pools are very deep, throughout the travertines freely, but everyone must remove their shoes. There is also a mud layer beneath the water that is said to have healing powers and do wonders for skin. Pamukkale was actually used as a pseudo-spa during antiquity. Here are some pictures of Katie and I testing it out.

We really enjoyed our adventure to the travertines. And we're really coming to enjoy Turkey as our time here winds down. Tonight we take an overnight bus back to Istanbul and tomorrow afternoon we fly to Athens! We'll keep y'all posted.

Cheers,

Will and Katie 

Ephesus

Yesterday, whilst staying at Garden Camping, we were lucky enough to wander through the ruins o Ephesus. While Will and I both thought that the ruins were one of the seven wonders of the world we were wrong. Which explains why we didn't see any signs touting a wonder of the world. If anyone around us spoke English, I'm sure they thought we were delirious from the heat rambling about a wonder of the world. 

While it is not a wonder of the world, it is definitely impressive enough to be one. 

The first of the ruins was the Church of Mary. The sign described it as a small church with three pews. It was not small by any means. We couldn't find the pews, but we were able to see the alter, the aspersorium, and where they baptized people. The ornate decoration on the columns and tiles is amazingly well preserved and quite impressive. 

Next we saw some ancient mile markers that were used to tell the distance between important monuments and towns. The reining emperors name was below the distance/street name and when a new emperor took over they simply turned the marble blocks over. When they ran out of space they started writing in red. Amazingly we saw remnants of red paint on a few of the signs. 

Next we walked down a long columnated street to the city market. It was at one time a 2 story building with offices and shops lining the walls surrounding a massive open square. Today all that remains is one upper level shop and columns lining the market square. 

After the market we made it to the Library of Celsus. This was our favorite part of the town (Will took a liking to the latrine as well). The library once housed 12,000 ancient scrolls and had rooms for reading. Today the face of the library is all that still stands. It is a massive, marble masterpiece with status of the emperor and his family as well as elaborate decoration on every part of the library. 

Next we saw Hadrian's Temple and Hercules' Gate. The town was massive and neither of us can fathom how t was built. Everything was made of marble, elaborately decorated, and still in great shape. 

After we left Ephesus we went back to he camp ground to cool off. While flipping through Lonely Planet we realized that Ephesus is not a wonder of the world, the Temple of Artemis is the wonder of the world. So, we set out for the Temple of Artemis. We made it with 20 minutes before they shut the gates and it was free! For being a wonder of the world it was very poorly marked. We stumbled upon it while trying to read our map. After seeing Ephesus the temple was not nearly as impressive to me. Will enjoyed it a bit more. The Temple of Artemis was once a 127 column temple with a sunken alter for a wooden figure that was worshiped by a cult. Artemis was the goddess of Ephesus, thus the name. The temple was burned by an emperor who declared Christianity as the religion of the land and only 1 pillar stands today. The pillar is massive and you can see the base of many other pillars as well as parts of the ceiling. We're not quite sure what qualifies this as a wonder of the world, but it does eclipse the Acropolis in Greece, which is pretty impressive. I guess that qualifies it as a wonder. 

Cheers,

Katie and Will

Garden Camping

We found our promising campsite in Selcuk. It was great, quirky as all get out, but great. It was run by a woman and a man, whose relationship we're not certain about. We think they were both Italian given that they only spoke Italian and Turkish and were eager to know if we spoke Italian. Spoiler alert: we don't. We were still able to communicate with some work and secure our two nights of camping. We also had access to laundry, showers, and a kitchen with a fridge. Not too shabby. Here's where it starts to get quirky. 

That is the entrance to the campsite. It's not great, but you might be able to make out that the sign says swimming pool. The swimming pool is empty. The sign also says something about a co-op and organic food sales from the farm; nowhere to be found. We're not complaining, but the pool would have made this place perfection during the 100 degree heat.

The place looked like it was a party in its hay-day, like it has a ton of retroactive potential. The only way we've been able to describe it is a compound. a deserted but quaint, and at times beautiful compound. There was also a hotel run in conjunction with the camping but it was totally vacant. The first night there were two other couples camping and the second night we had the whole place to ourselves.

Above is our tent site and the view from our tent. That castle was a wicked cool view, but we couldn't figure out what it was. It wasn't listed in our guide book and it didn't seem to be accessible from town. But, nonetheless we had a fantastic view of a big ole' castle to wake up to.

Above are some pictures of the confused  compound.

And last but not least some shots of the lime and pomegranate trees that lined Garden Camping.

It was good to have some solitude for a couple of nights, but we were ready to say "Ciao" to our Italian friends and to the cooky place that Garden Camping is.

Cheers,

Will and Katie